South West Coast path Clovelly to Bude

Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Clovelly to Hartland Quay

After an early start we arrived at Clovelly visitor centre. It was a lovely, clear October day and we were keen to begin our three day “stroll”. We left the car at Clovelly and walked to Hartland Quay.
imageimage image
This is a very rugged part of the South West Coast Path. Our hotel for the night at Hartland Quay was a friendly place frequented by walkers and locals. It was surrounded by steep windswept coast and a shore of jagged rocks.
Hartland Quay where coal and lime used to be unloaded.
Hartland Quay where coal and lime used to be unloaded.
Hartland to Morwenstow
Hartland to Morwenstow

This next stretch is described as severe in the guide book, and not without reason. It can be done as an 8 hour walk to Bude but thankfully we stopped halfway at Morwenstow. Our walk ended at Hawkers Hut. The Rev Hawker was a characterful local who used the hut to reflect and smoke opium. The hut is the smallest property owned by the National Trust. imageimage
Hawker's Hut
Hawker’s Hut

We stayed at the Bush Inn, a cosy place, with authentic beamed ceilings and stone floors. It is described as once being the haunt of wreckers which is easy to believe on this coastline.

Walking towards Bude
Walking towards Bude
Uppy downy
Uppy downy
Journey's end - Bude
Journey’s end – Bude

Monday was a cloudier day and we set off early to beat the forecasted rain. It was another strenuous and scenic stretch of coast which gradually became gentler as we neared Bude. A tasty chowder in one of the many cafes was very welcome. We experienced torrential rain on our drive onwards to Falmouth. We were relieved not to have been out climbing the combes in that downpour.

Thoughts for September- Leonardo Da Vinci, my latest hero

da-vinci-alam_159842t mona-lisa

Having a philosophical month.
I find myself intrigued by Leonardo Da Vinci.
More than the painter of the Mona Lisa (which I once queued up to see in Paris).
Genius, inventor, scientist and philosopher.
Born in 1452 yet making so much sense today.

The Seven Da Vincian Principles

Curiosity (Curiosita) – An insatiably curious approach to life and an unrelenting quest for continuous learning.

Demonstration (Dimonstrazione) – A commitment to test knowledge through experience, persistence, and willingness to learn from mistakes.

Sensation (Sensazione) – The continual refinement of the senses, especially sight, as the means to enliven experience.

Smoke (Sfumato) – Becoming open to the unknown. A willingness to embrace ambiguity, paradox, and uncertainty.

Art and Science (Arte/Scienza) – Whole-Brain thinking. The development of the balance between science and art, logic and imagination.

The Body (Corporalita) – The cultivation of grace, ambidexterity, fitness, and poise. Balancing the body and mind.

Connection (Connessione) – A recognition of and appreciation for the interconnectedness of all things and phenomena. Systems thinking.

Macmillan Way…..ish Stamford to Oakham

Stamford
Stamford

We somehow took the wrong route out of Stamford, travelling northwest rather than south west. This meant half of our walk was along roads instead of footpaths. We missed the villages of Easton on the Hill and Ketton and only rejoined the route when we entered Empingham. Rather a walk ruined really, we will be careful to cross reference our MacMillan Way book and ordnance survey phone app next time.
Back on the footpath
Back on the footpath

After lunch, sat outside in the sunshine at the White Horse Inn, we crossed the road and followed the footpath to Rutland water. We took the North Shore route and followed it back to Oakham.
Rutland water reservoir
Rutland water reservoir
Rutland water
Rutland water

Back to the MacMillan Way Tongue End to Stamford

A nail biting taxi ride took us from Stamford back to Tongue End. Boy that guy was in a hurry.
The steep banked footpath along the river Glen was designated as a nature reserve. The cattle that maintained the landscape thankfully stepped aside as we ventured past.
Tongue End
img_4326-5
img_1602
img_4325-5
The river bank began to reduce in height and we started to leave the fenland landscape behind.
After Sunday lunch at the Hare and Hounds in Greatford we walked on through Shillingthorpe Park where the house was once used as a lunatic asylum. As we emerged from woodland into the dappled sunlight we encountered the magical sight of a herd of roe deer crossing our path. They were almost too far away by the time we had our cameras ready.

Roe deer
Roe deer

Our tired feet found a busier Stamford as it was the weekend of the Burghley Horse Trials.

August summery summary

After a week removing the soot deposits from the kitchen walls and cupboards it was a relief to spend most of August on holiday. It was interesting seeing new places, have time to think and to live life at a slower pace. Sailing means going with wind and tide (and the occasional storm). A picture that we bought in Cobh Southern Ireland provided me with a thought for this month.

Picture by Francis Leavey
Picture by Francis Leavey

Cape Clear Island, Schull and Crookhaven

Cape Clear Island was easy to reach from Baltimore. We did several circuits of the little harbour as all of the walls had no berthing signs. The space for yachts was at the harbour entrance and after our initial misgivings turned out to be a comfortable spot with water on tap and access to the shore by a steep ladder. We enjoyed a walk around the fairly steep lanes. It is a relatively undeveloped island with a bar, shop, school and heritage centre. A ferry arrives from the mainland each morning with visitors. It is a Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) area and home to artists and writers.

Cape Clear Island
Cape Clear Island

We had seen high winds and rain forecast for the weekend so we headed for Schull on the mainland with the intention of mooring in Crookhaven to see out the impending storm. Unfortunately the weather closed in a little quicker, and we found ourselves moored offshore in Schull harbour. It became difficult to access the shore as the winds increased.
The storm with no name
The storm with no name

Kinsale to Baltimore

Kinsale marina
Kinsale marina
The entrance to Kinsale is dramatic. Lush green hills, Charles Fort on the right and the remains of James Fort on the left. We walked to Charles fort the following day. It is a 17th century star shaped castle (a design to resist attack by canon). It was named after Charles II and was built to protect the harbour and town of Kinsale. It was important in the Williamite War 1689-91 and the Irish Civil War 1922-23. It was occupied by a British Army garrison for 200 years. It was declared a National Monument in 1973.
Charles Fort
Charles Fort

IMG_5501

Courtmatsherry harbour
Courtmatsherry harbour

Fuschia hedge common in South-West Ireland
Fuschia hedge common in South-West Ireland

We sailed on to Courtmacsherry (locally known as Courtmac), a small seaside town. We walked along the Seven Heads path which included woodland, coastal path and a fuschia walk. The friendly locals helped us to moor on the small pontoon there.
Glandore
Glandore

Glandore (Cuan Dor or harbour of the oaks) was our next stop. A pretty village where we enjoyed a good meal in the bistro by the harbour. We walked to Drombeg Stone Circle where excavations in 1957 revealed a central pit containing the cremated remains of a youth.
Drombeg Stone Circle
Drombeg Stone Circle
Especially interesting was the fulacht fiadh. There was a trough filled with water from a well. It was heated by rolling fire warmed stones into it. In an experiment in 1957 they heated 70 gallons of water up to boiling point in 18 minutes. Meat could be cooked in it and it could remain hot for 3 hours. The adjoining hut appeared to contain the remains of a roasting oven. Very civilised for 1100 – 800BC.
Drombeg Fulacht Fiadh and Hut Site
Drombeg Fulacht Fiadh and Hut Site

Our next port of call was Castletownshend, which as the name suggests is a village that developed around a castle. We walked up the hill to the one small shop followed by refreshments in the castle cafe by the waters edge. The Mary Ann pub served us a good meal and a sup of guinness.
Castletownshend
Castletownshend

On our journey to Baltimore we stopped at Loch Hyne. This is an unusual seawater lake. We walked partially around it and climbed a nearby hillside. Water from the sea rushes into the lake with the tide causing a section called the rapids. We took the dingy over these at half tide, which was great until we tried to get back. Fortunately a friendly family of kayakers helped to pull us against the tide.
Misty view of loch Hyne
Misty view of loch Hyne
The rapids
The rapids

We took a bus to Skibbereen from Baltimore. It was a characterful town with a high street of brightly painted buildings. No chain stores here, we were told that the supermarket ‘Fields of Skibberrean’ was famous (there are lots of apparently famous places in Ireland though). The visitor centre was interesting with lots of information about the Irish famine and Loch Hyne that we had visited the previous day. We had a lovely lunch in The Church restaurant, a tastefully restored building.
Baltimore
Baltimore
Skibbereen High street (Wikipedia)
Skibbereen High street (Wikipedia)

Southern Ireland coast- Cork to Kinsale

We had a good crossing from Scilly to Cork (23 hours), meaning the winds were a little too exciting at times. It was a very quiet crossing with no sightings of other boats, a little disconcerting especially at night. We checked the AIS just for reassurance. On Richards watch we passed two gas rigs then saw little else before glimpsing the Irish coast.

Last view of Scilly from the Irish Sea
Last view of Scilly from the Irish Sea
All at sea
All at sea

The Irish coast, a welcome sight
The Irish coast, a welcome sight

After mooring the boat in Crosshaven Marina we caught a bus into Cork. We wandered around, saw the sights and really enjoyed stretching our legs.
Cork
Cork
The English Market, Cork
The English Market, Cork

We left the boat in Crosshaven and flew home to England the next day.
Crosshaven
Crosshaven

On our return to Crosshaven, two weeks later, we replenished our supplies. There is a good supermarket in Crosshaven, these become a rarity as you travel west.
Leaving Crosshaven
Leaving Crosshaven

We sailed over the bay to the colourful town of Cobh. This was an interesting place because of its links to the voyage of the ill-fated Titanic.
Cobh
Cobh

Third class cabin
Third class cabin
First class cabin
First class cabin
The Titanic exhibition was well presented. Our tickets held the name of a titanic passenger. At the end you found out if they were one of the survivors, Richard survived and I didn’t. There were reconstructions of cabin interiors which looked quite luxurious, with proper furniture and running water.
Virtuelle, first class of course.
Virtuelle, first class of course, not sure about the cruise liner behind?.

We also visited an exhibition describing the mass emigrations from Ireland. The sheer the scale of it was shocking. The desperation that motivates people to flee their home countries on such treacherous journeys. Very relevant when you consider the migration that is happening today.
We had moored next to a restaurant so enjoyed a good lunch before setting off for Kinsale.
Coastline Cork to Kinsale
Coastline Cork to Kinsale

Rural Idyll

Close to home
Close to home

We did not travel far this weekend. A wander up the road took us to the local agricultural show. This was the 132nd show for the Blakesley and District Agricultural Society. This traditional rural show has classes for cattle, sheep,horses and some roots and corn exhibits together with a gymkhana, displays and trade exhibitors.
Blood hounds, they are used to chase human runners
Blood hounds, they are used to chase human runners
We arrived around lunch time and tucked into the hand carved roast beef rolls usefully located in the beer tent. Fortunately the glorious sunshine meant that this was not a Saturday to linger under canvas. We enjoyed a good stroll around the exhibitor stalls and animals.
Jersey cow
Jersey cow
We watched a remarkable display by Atkinsons Action Horses who have “spent twenty years training horses and riders for TV, film and live events”. They provide horses and riders for Poldark (no sign of Ross though!). They galloped at fantastic speeds and carried out amazingly daring stunts, it was truly breathtaking.IMG_5194

On Sunday we enjoyed a 5 mile stroll to a local hostelry via green lanes and fields.

Green lanes originally used for moving livstock
Green lanes originally used for moving livstock
We are surrounded by beautiful countryside and the quiet roads are popular with cyclists, horseriders and walkers. There are many footpaths and bridleways intersecting the roads enabling us to return home via a different 4 mile route after a light lunch.
Rural idyll
Rural idyll